Sherry vinegar is to sherry what red wine vinegar is to red wine…sort of. The difference lies in the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin)—special legal protection the European Union assigns to the names of certain regional foods. (Gorgonzola and Roquefort are examples.) Sherry vinegar has it; red wine vinegar doesn’t. Red wine can come from almost anywhere, but sherry can only be sherry if it’s from a little triangle of Spain’s Andalucia (the “sherry triangle,” of course). Ditto for sherry vinegar. In addition to the geographical pedigree, it has to meet certain standards for ageing and acidity. The tangy result is worth the $4 to $10 you’ll pay for a bottle. It lasts more-or-less forever if you keep it tightly closed in a cool, dark place. We’re hooked on it, and we use it in a number of our dishes: Broiled Lamb Chops with a Smoky Pipérade, Chickpeas with a Smoky Pipérade, Spicy Tomato-Peach Gazpacho, and Cannellini Bean and Onion Spread (Not-so-Simple).

You’ll find it in the condiments section of the supermarket, near the oils and other vinegars. Columela is a widely available and reliable brand.