Our featured recipe this week calls for dried porcini, so we thought we’d say a few words about them. First, we know they’re not cheap ($2 to $5 per ounce), but they’re worth every penny. We think of them as poor man’s truffles because they’re in the same genre and they add a similar dark, aromatic earthiness to food. Luckily, they’re not in the same price range. (Truffles cost $35 to $125 per ounce.)

Once they’re rehydrated, they can be used in all sorts of things, including soups, stews, and sauces. They’re powerful, so you don’t need much (by weight) to make a big impression. For example, we only use ¼ ounce per person in our steak recipe.

You can usually find dried porcini in packages near other dried mushrooms or near the canned tomatoes and pasta. Occasionally you’ll see them in the produce department. Go for packages containing more big pieces and fewer small ones because big pieces are easier to clean. (And it’s important to clean them well so you don’t get a mouth full of grit.) You can store them at room temperature or in the fridge.

To rehydrate porcini:

Place in a heat-proof bowl or measuring cup and cover with boiling water. Soak 20 minutes. Drain and rinse well under cold running water, rubbing them as you rinse. Lightly pat dry on paper towels to remove excess moisture.

The soaking liquid can be used in soups and stews also if you strain it first. To do so, wet a paper towel, squeeze out the excess water, and then line your strainer with it. Set it over a heat-proof bowl or measuring cup and pour the soaking liquid through the strainer.